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A memorial made of wreckage
13 August, 2018 / ,

 

In the Agramonte Cemetery, in the Boavista area, a gigantic ark filled with burnt and twisted irons, reminds us of one of the city’s greatest tragedies.

On the night of March 20, 1888, a violent fire completely destroyed the Teatro Baquet, a building with two entrances (Rua de Sá da Bandeira and Rua de Santo António, currently Rua 31 de janeiro). That fateful night, the room was full and on stage comic opera was on. During a change of scenery, one of the cloths touched the flame of gaslight. Due to the materials, the antiquity of the building and the lack of a security plan, fire has spread rapidly and 120 people died in this tragedy.

The fire led to the redress of security in all the rooms of the city and, so that such misfortune was never forgotten, a memorial was made in the Cemetery of Agramonte. The mausoleum, which still intrigues people who do not know this episode of the history of the city, was made with pieces of iron and has on top a large crown of martyrs, also in iron.

Manuel de Novaes Cabral
13 August, 2018 / , ,

Born in 1960 in this city, where he carries his professional life, excluding the period in which he was head of the office of Minister Valente de Oliveira, in Lisbon. It is from here that since November 2011, he leads the IVDP, Institute of Douro and Port Wines, which supervises, monitors and certifies the quality and quantity of the and Douro wines as well as promotes them and defend the respective designations of origin. Graduated in Law and postgraduate in European Economics by the Universidade Católica Portuguesa, served as deputy director of the newspaper O Primeiro de Janeiro and was an adviser to the of the Fundação de Serralves.

But before arriving at the IVDP he was the Municipal Director of the Presidency of the Porto City Hall for 8 years and many years in the Coordination Commission of the Northern Region.

Getting back to wine, his connection is deeply familiar and institutional as for 4 years he was also Secretary-General of the Assembly of European Wine Regions, and represented the Porto City Hall at the Great Wine Capitals.  This connection is still made through books, rooted and properly cultivated taste; among others, he published “Aspects de la politique Vitivinicole des Régions d’Europe” (3 vols., 2000 and 2001), “Territories of the Wine” (1st edition, 2009, 2nd edition and Mode de Ler, 2010) and “Other Territories of Wine” (ed. Modo de Ler, 2012) and, of course, his frequent and regular participation in newspapers and magazines.

With wine as the center of attention, but with special focus on what the Douro region provides us.

As he considers wine a cultural element, he does not cease to make this connection constantly: he presented this month in July the book Poems of My Life, the 23rd volume of an annotated collection of poems inserted in a collection begun by Mário Soares, which includes authors such as Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa, Vasco Graça Moura or Eduardo Lourenço.

His suggestions are about the city where he lives and knows well. And what good tips he has to give

– Restaurant: I really like going to Ernesto, in Rua da Picaria. It blends really well its old feel with the cosmopolitanism of its clientele. And the walls full of memories, with the cosy good taste of my friend Reinaldo, along with an honest and impeccable kitchen.

 

– Bar: A Capela Incomum, in Carregal. The place, the friends and the very old memory of the visits (without any success) of the old Conservatory.

– Tour: Is Porto not a romantic city by nature? Let’s do the Caminhos do Romântico!

– Ideal place to drink some port wine: Port wine, by itself, at the right temperature and in the glass, transforms any place. I suggest, of course, the atmosphere of the Port Wine Cellars, in Vila Nova de Gaia.

– A secret of the city that you can reveal: The heart of D Pedro, in the Church of Lapa, whose keys are shared by the Ombudsman of the respective Brotherhood and the Mayor of Porto – only accessible to some and in very rare moments.

And if being a bit eerie: Why not circle through the cemeteries of Porto, like the catacombs of S. Francisco, or “hanging out” with Camilo Castelo Branco or Arnaldo Gama in the cemetery of Lapa? And if you go there, ask to see the pistol with which Camilo committed suicide in 1890 in S. Miguel de Seide.

One last tip: Do not forget to visit one of the lesser-known and most notable Houses of Porto, the former Banco Comercial do Porto, currently the Douro and Porto Wine Institute, in Rua Ferreira Borges where you can with a glass of Port in hand.

Procession of the paper costume in Foz do Douro
9 August, 2018 / , , , ,

 

From mid-June to mid-September, the União de Freguesias (Union of Parishes) of Aldoar, Foz do Douro and Nevogilde, host the São Bartolomeu parties – a group of activities that liven up the streets and unite populations and visitors.

The procession of the Paper Costume is admittedly the most awaited moment of the festivities, with a history that has already surpassed 100 years and that in the last decade has gained special notoriety in the city.

 

These are months of work and preparation, with a permanent focus on roots, history and stories of the region. The 2nd French Invasion of 1809 and the Liberation of the City of Porto is the theme for the Paper Costume Contest in 2018, which will take place on August 26. There are meters and meters of paper, surgically worked by dedicated hands that keep this festive moment in the city alive.

This year’s edition has 350 extras, from gatherings and associations of the União de Freguesias, who will join the remaining hundreds who visit Foz do Douro to live this unique experience.

The current format is now 75 years old and integrates a route that seeks to reach the main centers of the history of Foz do Douro. The costumes parade begins at 10:30 am and goes through the Cantareira, rich in its fishing tradition.

After the inevitable passage through the charismatic Jardim do Passeio Alegre, a favourite amongst many intellectuals who fill the culture of Foz do Douro and Oporto, the procession continues to Ourigo Beach where the sea baths take place, one of the most noticeable traditions at the São Bartolomeu parties.

These baths are filled with tradition and folktales. Also known as “holy baths”, these dives in the waters of the Atlantic – seven, as tradition says – are a way of thanking São Bartolomeu’s favors in the last year and for banishing malaria over the next twelve months.

The participants of this year’s edition come from Bloco da União de Freguesias de Aldoar, Foz do Douro e Nevogilde, Associação de Moradores do Bairro Social da Pasteleira – Previdência, Associação de Moradores do Bairro Social de Aldoar and Orfeão da Foz do Douro.

People from all different backgrounds and spaces join in this tradition, showing that the city is made of all and with all even in the most popular of its traditions.

Loja das Tábuas – An expression of nature
9 August, 2018 / ,

Have you visited Loja das Tábuas? It produces boards for most kitchen Chefs and markets traditional Portuguese products with national, raw materials and revitalizes them with a contemporary and elegant touch.

Visit it at the Palácio das Artes in Porto and find dozens of different models of cutting boards or tableware that you can customize with a laser engraving. In addition to the Portuguese pine, you will find, for example, oak wood boards, olive wood and various cork products. There you can find other utensils such as benches, wine boxes or national cutlery products.

At the end, take your boards in a reused litter pack to complete an experience that values tradition and past knowledge whilst creating emotions in the present.

Largo de São Domingos, 20
Palácio das Artes
Porto
+351222080067
https://www.lojadastabuas.pt

 

The Art of Wrought Iron
20 July, 2018 /

As you stroll through Porto, make sure to stop along the way to look at the balconies, doors and windows and discover true works of art in wrought iron.

Present in major works, such as the D. Maria and D. Luís I bridges or the Ferreira Borges market, iron was not only used in architecture and engineering. Wrought iron, because it is more malleable, has been (and continues to be) used in more delicate decorative pieces. It is made in an artisan way and with a knowledge that has been passed down through generations.

Walking through Porto you will discover hundreds of small works of art present on the doors, windows and balconies. Geometric motifs, flowers, plants and animals “carved” in wrought iron, decorate houses making them unique. In some you can even see, among the iron lace, the date of the construction or the initials of its owner.

The author of the page Porto a Penantes has toured the streets of the city and in this edition shares some examples of the beauty of wrought iron.

facebook.com/PortoaPenantes/

Igreja Senhora da Conceição
20 July, 2018 /

It is one of the most recent churches of Porto and, besides its unique architecture, it offers a privileged view of Porto and surrounding cities from its tower.

Consecrated by Our Lady of the Conception, patroness of Portugal, it is known among the Portuguese simply as the Igreja do Marquês, name of the square where it is located.

The creation of the Parish of Senhora da Conceição in 1927 made it necessary to build a church that could welcome the inhabitants of that part of the city, which became increasingly populous. The project was handed over to the Benedictine monk Paul Bellot. The first stone was laid in 1938 but due to economic difficulties and World War II, the work would only be completed in 1947.

The architecture has Gothic, Byzantine and Arab influences. Inside, the stained-glass windows with scenes of the life of Christ and of the Virgin Mary stand out, as well as an organ with 39 registers. One of the towers has 18 bells that can play 120 different songs. It is also possible to climb the tower, which is one of the highest points of the city and with a breath taking view.

Praça do Marquês de Pombal, 111, Porto
Visits: from 10h30 to 12h00 and from 15h00 to 17h00

Jardim do Carregal
20 July, 2018 /

It is considered the last romantic garden of Porto. The bridge that crosses the lake and the lush green trees that surround it create a unique and peaceful environment in a very busy area.

Built in 1897, this garden was designed by the Gardener-Landscapist Jerónimo Monteiro da Costa. The lake, the bridge and trees like cedars, sequoias and araucarias make this green space a pleasant place to relax.

Located next to the Hospital de Santo António, this garden also pays homage to the doctor, professor, researcher and artist Abel Salazar, with a statue by the sculptor Hélder de Carvalho.

The name (Carregal) comes from a plant called Carrega which grew on the banks of the Rio Frio (a River) which started near Torrinha and passed through the place where the hospital Santo António is today.

The suggestions of Maria Miguel
20 July, 2018 / , ,

At 17 years of age, Maria Miguel already walked the runway for brands like Saint Laurent, Chanel and Isabel Marant. Her career – which she tries to reconcile with her studies – makes her travel a lot, but Porto is her home.

Her passion for the city is implicit and she recently said in an interview with a Portuguese newspaper: “To me, of all cities, it is the best to live in. It has the sea, the river, has great food”.

Maria Miguel was born in Braga but lived in the Gerês area. When her father went to work in Angola, she accompanied the family and lived for seven years in the African country. She still spent a year in England but now, despite spending a lot of time in Paris, it’s in Porto that her family and friends live and here she comes back whenever she can.

The love of fashion came by chance in the life of this “tomboy”, who liked to play football and to walk in shorts. She was approached several times by representatives of models agencies but it wasn’t until the age of 14 that she decided to give it a go. After winning the L’Agence go to model contest, proposals for work began to emerge. She travelled to London and later to Paris, where she did a casting for Saint Laurent that changed her life. She has already opened two runways for the brand and worked exclusively for the prestigious Parisian brand for a full year. Despite all her success, she continues to not be dazzled by fame, keeping her tastes simple and normal for a young girl of her age.

RESTAURANT

Puro 4050: It has the best tru e pizza in the world! Largo São Domingos, 84 Porto

STROLL

Baixa do Porto:

Not only is it beautiful but you can also get a good workout in as it is full of ups and downs.

GARDEN

Parque da Cidade:

It has really cool football fields!

 

The traditional barber shops in Porto
20 July, 2018 / , , ,

These are nine of the traditional barbershops in the city of Porto and all are located between the Hospital Santo António and the São Bento Station.

Also traditional is the decoration of these barbershops, with iron armchairs and brass instruments capable of withstanding decades of use. Professionals also follow this longevity: many are elderly gentlemen with weather-discolored hair and clever fingers wrapped in wrinkles.

  • Barbearia Porto: It was born in 1946 but from that date only the chairs and a shoebox are left. The new owners brought in the rest of the vintage decor. It is two steps from the Avenida dos Aliados.
  • Barbearia Garrett: Since 1979 in the hands of Acácio Branco, this barbershop is just a few meters from the Porto City Hall. With an old-fashioned décor, this establishment only has male guests.
  • Oficina do Cabelo: Formerly known as Tinoco, reopened under this name. From 1929 it maintains the marble washbasins, iron chairs, huge mirrors and floor covered with fan mosaics. It is now considered part of Porto’s heritage.
  • Barbearia Santo António: It is not much bigger than a corridor, but it brings a lot of history in the hands of António Cardoso. There are more than 50 years of cuts at the beginning of Rua 31 de Janeiro.
  • Barbearia Norton: In this barbershop, in the Batalha area, we talk about everything and keep alive the tradition of the neighbourhood barber with leather chairs, beard brush and razors.
  • Salão Veneza: It is almost 90 years old and more than 70 years as a barbershop. Some of the most unforgettable characters of our history have already sat in these red armchairs.
  • Barbearia Sport: It was in 1942 that this barbershop settled in Porto. It happened in an era where one would spend more time embellishing their moustache than cutting hair.
  • Barbearia Invicta: Aventino Silva has been in this barbershop since the age of 10 and despite the arrival of the blades, he has not lost clients.
  • Barbearia Orlando: It already has two spaces in Porto but it is in the Rua Álvaro Castelões that the tradition, the customers and the conversations are kept on point.

Source: “Os bigodes à antiga e a arte de os fazer bem feitos” – Prova de Aptidão Artística (Artistic aptitude test) by Edgar Duarte (Escola Artística Soares dos Reis)

Rua da Picaria 
20 July, 2018 /

It began by being linked to horses. Then, it was once a street sought after by those who wanted to buy furniture and is now a cosmopolitan place where it is possible to find restaurants with foods from all over the world.

The designation of picaria seems to be prior to the street itself and may indicate that in that place, or in the vicinity, there was a stable. The street only began to be planned in the eighteenth century, at a time when this area of ​​the city, still quite rural, was urbanized and modernized.

Paved in the late 1930s, this street was occupied for decades by cabinetmakers and small furniture stores. In the absence of shop windows, small bookcases and wooden benches often occupied the narrow sidewalks. It was also in these carpenters that the Portuguese who, in the 19th and 20th centuries, immigrated to Brazil in search of work and wealth used pine boxes.

The area is also known for its lively nights due to the existence of two famous cabarets. The opening of the Rua de Ceuta, already in the twentieth century, led to some houses nearby being demolished. Travessa da Picaria disappeared, but the street remained until the present day.

Currently, Rua da Picaria is one of the liveliest places in Porto given the great diversity of restaurants and different gastronomic options.

Curiosities:

The Anglo Portuguese Telephone Company settled in Rua da Picaria and built a building there that still belongs to a communications company. The red telephone booths, which still exist in some streets of Porto, are a trace of this Portuguese-British company.

In the number 49 grew Francisco Sá Carneiro, Prime Minister of Portugal who died in 1980. Across the street was his law firm.

At the corner of Rua da Picaria and Rua de Ceuta there was once the Court where the writer Camilo Castelo Branco was tried for the crime of adultery. His relationship with Ana Plácido, the wife of a prosperous businessman, shocked the nineteenth-century Porto society.